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Comments: 23 | Prop Total: 28 | Avg: 1.22
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(Feb 5, 2012 at 1:58)
(Below Threshold) show comment
Likely they broke while you were jumping and you had just now happened to put that little bit of pressure necessary to finish the crack off. Hope you didn't get hurt!
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Saw the thumbnail and nearly yelled "Alaska!". Can't wait for this summer to go back there, especially with robby's new rig.
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They spin freely. I ride with heeled insulated hiking boots, so each time I put my foot on the peg, it rolls to a consistent point against the heel, in the arch of my foot. This was initially going to be temporary until I attached pedals to the bike, but I think I like this better.
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They spin freely. I ride with heeled insulated hiking boots, so each time I put my foot on the peg, it rolls to a consistent point against the heel, in the arch of my foot. This was initially going to be temporary until I attached pedals to the bike, but I think I like this better.
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You can see the guy in the second row, second from left showing off his scar from that awesome crash he had last season.
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No kidding. I was curious myself when I started this and I saw a set for over $600. Doing your own work and material sourcing makes a huge difference.
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Not counting the bike frame, suspension, headset, stem and handlebars, under $100 for materials.
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Skis are mounted using heli coils inserts that are installed into the wood core of the ski, with a screw going through the bottom piece of aluminum into the insert. Four screws per ski.
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Like a f*ckin' beer can. It's amazing how thin designers are making the downtube now.
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The steerer tube is likely ruined, unless you can cut it down to where it's still round and still safely fit it on a bike. Since it won't slide off the bike, you can either use more force, cut it off right below the stem with a hack saw (electrified or otherwise), or you can cut the stem apart where the clamp is.
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Absolutely. The quality control on something like a brake should be pretty extensive.
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Had mine for over a year now and have worked wonders. Obviously not on par with the high end brakes from other companies, but they worked reliably, even down to -40 degrees. Call Clarks in the UK and get it sorted out.
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How this is considered a design improvement is beyond me.
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It looks like he really doesn't want whatever is ahead of him...
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They are not softer because of the less dense oil, as the oil doesn't 'affect' the spring rate of low speed compressions. It is the affect the cold has on the crystal structure of the metal that lowers the spring rate when the metal is warmed up again.
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Rider from Fairbanks, Alaska here.
I just went through my first winter here where it got down to -40º in December. At those temperatures my (coil w/ oil dampening) fork and rear coil shock locked up (presumably because I hucked it off a 1m ledge at those temperatures). My mechanical disk brakes did well, but were useless because at those temperatures the hardened tires become slick on bare pavement. I brought my bike in to warm up to see what was up with the forks and they didn't seem to unlock themselves after a few days of thawing. I rebuilt them and put some 5wt oil (instead of 15) in and now they seem to work fine at -30ºC. I never actually figured out what locked them up in the first place, even after thawing. One interesting effect I did notice is now that it is warmer, both my front and rear coils seem quite a bit softer. It makes for a nicer ride on smooth trails, but it is absolutely hell when landing any jumps when the fork bottoms out. |
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